This past couple of weeks have been full of activity (work, painting, work, painting,) but at least a few days were spent leisure-like in Charleston, S.C. The delights there are many, in particular for the arts minded; the act of strolling, in itself, is a kind of cultural escape, given Charleston’s mise-en-scene. I like to think that there is no place else on earth with quite the blend of early American and Eurpopean architechture and structure as the Palmetto City. I often feel like I’m in a fantasized version of old-town Europe there, that the cobblestone streets and “Single House” style is almost theatrical in its charm.
Lucky for us, a client of mine offered their spacious (read: huge) 18th century-right-on-the Battery- house for the stay. This place was amazing, and a piece of history itself. Converted servants quarters, antique fixtures, huge landings, and super-tall ceilings are just a few of the authentic features of our staying residence. Right in the middle of it all, too, which made it especially nice for folks who love to stroll.
And the things you can find by walking there are delicious. We had dinner the first night at Fleet Landing Restaurant, a restored Naval debarkation point, which served up the best She-Crab soup (at least top-three) I’ve had, creamy with a hint of sherry. Other taste emporiums included Cru Cafe and Hominy Grill. On the downside of Charleston cuisine, I do sense a trend to “re-southernized” dishes; if the trendy eateries of the big coastal cities are to be believed, then all southerners eat Fried Chicken, cooked Cordon Bleu style, ladled with fancy gravy. Every mid-to-high level restaurant there feels it necessary to have a Shrimp and Grits dish. But, this self-consciousness aside, the low-country food does delight.
But this is an art blog (maybe art of living?), so what of the art in Charleston? For my tastes, there are a some choice offerings that must be seen, gallery and store-wise. First, for fellow representational lovers, there is Ann Long Fine Art, where both the ongoing collection (featuring works by Ben Long and D. Jeffrey Mims, for two of the many greats there,) and “current shows” (as of this month, a great showcase of nudes,) are sometimes breathtaking. Robert Lange Studios, meanwhile, has a fresh, contemporary p.o.v. on representational and sometimes abstract/expressionist work by new, and younger, artists. Part boutique, part gallery, Plum Elements looks far-eastward in it’s tastes. Many unique gift and art print opportunities to be found here, especially for hand-crafted Asian-themed works that go far beyond hippy craft. We’re quite proud of the Mayumi Oda screen print we picked up there.
I had forgotten, to be frank, the poetry and wealth of treasures in Charleston. Strange to think of the gamut that coastal South Carolina runs, from the uber-trash of Myrtle Beach to the paradise of Brookgreen Gardens (see my earlier post on this,) to the historical fantasy of the Palmetto City.
